[Review] Equilibrium @ Capitol Piazza

What: New modern Italian concept Equilibrium, by the good folk from homegrown CRE8 Group, opens at Capitol Piazza—just behind Dazzling Cafe.

What to expect: Besides their range of popular pastas and pizzas, also available at sister establishment Supply & Demand—and a variety of new spins like the 'At Dusk' Pizza ($27), a clever combination of two hot favourites, Truffle & Egg Pizza and Parma Ham Pizza, but with coppa ham instead)—Equilibrium's menu features some delectable and less commonly found, traditional Italian fare, such as the Panelle ($12) of deep-fried chick peas fritters served with spicy garlic aioli and mango chutney.

Menu: Prepare to be lost amidst their many menus; they've got a tea pamphlet of over 50 offerings, a wine listing, a beverage and cocktail menu (though mocktails seem to be missing from this), an extensive food menu and an affordable $16.90 set lunch menu.

Group executive chef Samdy Kan also shares that plans have been set in motion to expand their current selection of pastas and pizzas, so I can only hope it will not overwhelm diners.

Short-form review: While their mains and pizzas aren't bad at all, I say treat Equilibrium as the Bacaro (Venetian wine bar) that it was meant to be, and stick to their flavourful small plates and interesting cocktail creations.

Must-tries: The rave-worthy La Bombette ($9.5, 2 skewers), grub usually found on the streets of Puglia, is a definite must-order.

Imagine gyoza's served on skewers, but with its skin switched out for succulent, char-grilled strips of pork belly, and that juicy filling replaced with a gratifyingly oozy, molten Parmesan center seasoned with just the right dash of oregano and chilli flakes.

Also delicious are the Grilled Beef Skewers ($11.50, a beef and fontina cheese variation) with an addictive hint of heat from its cayenne pepper-fennel rub, and the Calamari alla Griglia ($15)—tender, grilled squid enjoyed with a robust herbed butter sauce, topped with a dollop of citrus air.

If you manage to steal away for the surprisingly affordable $16.90 set lunch at Equilibrium, go for the masterfully executed, signature Roasted Chicken Leg ($24, a la carte), enjoyed with a rustic vegetable ragout.

Needs fine-tuning: Of the dishes I tried, the Pork & Mushroom Aglio Olio ($19)—also the chef's take on 'Bak Chor Mee'—didn't quite work for me. The flavours were spot on, but the slightly more resilient Farfalle seemed to throw the balance of textures.

Desserts: The line between savoury and sweet is blurred with Pastry Chef Belinda's whimsical Deli Dolce ($21). Instead of the humdrum charcuterie plate, she intrigues with a presentation of (clockwise from top) grapes, 64 percent dark chocolate 'salami', milk chocolate and caramelized onion 'pâté' with a whiskey caramel jelly, bacon jam cube, and raspberry and green apple 'Prosciutto'.

Or choose the Watermelon Carpaccio ($14)—refreshingly light and crisp compressed watermelon, teamed with a dulcet milk cheese foam, mint basil gel and watermelon sorbet on a brown-butter dust base.

Address: #01-86 Galleria, Capitol Piazza. 15 Stamford Road, Singapore 178906. Tel: +65 6384 4069 Operating hours: Daily 11.30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm