Buttero, Tras Street - Italian Cowboy Grub

Tras Street newbie Buttero promises a decent-enough roll call of casual Italian fare that's easy on the wallet, yet hearty enough for a boisterous bunch of dudes or 'butteri' (Tuscan cowboys). 

Exchanging the latest gossip over their controversial 'Jesus Juice' (granita of cola and pinot noir), we started the meal with some hauntingly good comfort food. A unanimous favourite, the Pulled Pork Waffle Fries ($15) was a moreish mix of flavoursome meat, crisp waffles fries and mozzarella.

Served with caramelized onions and pickles, the Triple Cheese & Truffle Toasty ($15) was packed with warm, oozy-goodness that threatens to turn any bad day around.

Previously from stalwart Italian restaurant Lucio's in Paddington, Sydney, it's no surprise that Executive Chef Logan Campbell's (vibrantly coloured) concise menu has a focus on homemade pasta—the menu also covers a selection of entrée plates, large plates (for sharing), sides and desserts.

In comparison to our round of wonderful starters, vegetarian-friendly pasta options Paccheri & Eggplant Ragu ($22) and Handmade Gnocchi ($21) with sautéed brussel sprouts and New Zealand honey) lacked that oomph and failed to tickle our palates.

The Crumbed Veal Cheek Taco ($19) also didn't quite hit the mark; the granny smith and horseradish slaw lacklustre and the tender meat underseasoned to the point of blah.

That being said, Buttero's standout dishes are their robust and well-executed mains (large plates).The Porchetta ($32), succulent roast pork from the rotissere, comes with braised beans and a decadently crisp crackling that had us shamelessly fighting for the last bite.

We also polished off our full-flavoured portion of The Dirty Steak ($34), wagyu flank rubbed with Carolina-style mustard and vinegar-based sauce and cooked directly atop hot coals, then served with piquant verde, onions rings and shallots.

The Cannoli ($12 for 3 pieces) might seem too rich after a hearty meal, but Chef Logan's rendition of the Italian classic is filled with airily light whipped ricotta, lifted with a refreshing inclusion of lemon.

For those who can stomach more, we highly recommend the no-nonsense, rich White Chocolate Rosemary Pot ($12) topped with pillowy orange blossom curves.

Buttero 54 Tras Street Singapore 078993

Tel: +65 64387737

Operating hours: Closed Sundays Mon-Sat Lunch: 12 noon till 3pm Mon-Sat Dinner: 6pm till late