Clifford Pier, Fullerton Bay - Charming Tribute to Hawker Heritage

Paying tribute to the historical charm and heritage of monumental pier, the new and eponymous all-day dining restaurant The Clifford Pier at The Fullerton Bay Hotel, gracefully occupying space of now-defunct restaurant One On The Bund, focuses largely on contemporary interpretations of perennial local and Asian cuisine, plus a smattering of Western classics.

Dishes are gorgeously plated to pair with the elegant and sophisticated restaurant aesthetic. While their Kueh Pie Tee ($15 for 6) filled with shredded turnips, Ubin prawns and fresh herbs were disappointingly monotonous, their Uni Glass Noodles ($28, served chilled with umami sea urchin, caviar, salted egg yolk, salmon roe in a savoury lime-truffle sauce) really hit the mark.

Staying true to his grandfather's recipe from when he was a hawker on Clifford Pier, Chef's Zheng's Two Generation Rickshaw Noodles ($15) is a filling combo of classic soup noodles with his own contemporary reinterpretation. On first visit, his dish of dry noodles with toothsome, simmered pork belly and soft-boiled egg just couldn't deliver the same comforting, emotive notes as the stewed yellow Hokkien noodles in a light pork broth. Things were however much better we returned—the noodles had a better bite to it and the addition of ikan bilis really pulled the flavours together.

The Asian suckling pig has been switched out for a more cosmopolitan Porchetta ($68 half, $38 portion). Slow-roasted to a golden 'crisp outside, succulent within' perfection, the spice-infused pork is served with two homemade condiments: a textured mix of paprika, garlic and imported fennel seeds, and a most fragrant paprika and chilli oil combo that highlights the dish.

Personally, I thought the menu was slightly confusing—what with the grouping of steak and lamb chop with curries. As for pricing, many might scream foul over $12 for 2 rolls of Popiah (or $5 for free-flow organic brown rice or jasmine rice) but meals are really about the entire dining experience, and they've got stellar service to team with their regal ambiance and finessed local delights.

Now, just to return and check if their Hainanese Chicken Rice ($32 half, $19 portion) is the same winning recipe as that of their sister hotel, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore.

The Clifford Pier The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore 80 Collyer Quay, Singapore 049326

Tel: +65  65975266

Operating hours: Mon-Fri 6.30am-12midnight Sat & Sun 6.30am-1am