Review: The Black Swan @ Cecil Street

Huddled amidst the manicured establishments that populate our Central Business District, The Black Swan, as its namesake suggests, presents an unexpectedly stylish concept that may very well have executives lingering around Raffles Place after working hours for some classic nosh done well—instead of scurrying for the next train out.

Modelled after New York in the roaring 1920s, the discreet doors of The Quadrant at Cecil opens up to manicured staff and a stunningly dramatic and classy U-shaped bar that exudes a seductive, old world charm like that of The Great Gatsby—the bar so coincidentally quotes it as well, “Here’s to alcohol, the rose-coloured glasses of life.”—making smartly-ironed shirts and blazers feel right at home.

Happy hour starts early at The Black Swan (Mon-Fri, 5pm-7.30pm), and while suave Beverage Manager Kamil Foltan can whip up some bespoke, mean cocktails, I’d recommend staying sober enough to thoroughly enjoy their good nosh.

Not to be missed is the crostini of Baked bone marrow ($18). The supple, glistening chunks of marrow that melt into puddles of flavour in the mouth were deliciously seasoned with konbu, chopped chillies and chives, then paired with smokey, toasted brioche.

Putting a finessed twist to the ubiquitous appetiser of beef tartare, their Char-grilled beef tartare ($26) presents supple, flash-grilled USDA 365-days grain-fed beef teamed with capers, toasted seasame seeds, fresh lemon juice and Tabasco atop a based of sweet, diced Nashi pears. The toasted baguette accentuates the tinge of smokiness the beef possesses, and the dish can probably serve as a stepping stone for those unused to the idea of purely raw beef,

Meat lovers will not be disappointed with the expertly executed pink Stockyard Australia ribeye steak ($96 for 500-grams of 400-days grain-fed beef). Sprinkled with sea salt—just what every good steak requires—each slice reveals intensely flavoured meat that's robust and succulent with a lovely smoky aroma that makes me want to throw down my cutlery and eat by hand in joyous abandon.

Other dishes worthy to try includes the Fish of the day ($34-38) that is intriguingly paired with savoury bacon velouté, quinoa and bacon jam—go for the smooth and creamy New Zealand Garouper if it’s available—and the Black Swan burger ($26) with a stack of juicy beef chuck patty, melted mature cheddar, butterhead lettuce, red onion rings, sunny side up and streaky bacon by the side.

Desserts were enjoyable, but did not particularly stand out for me—I had the Dark chocolate dome ($16) and Coconut crème caramel ($14)—though what impressed me was that attention to detail, like the golden cups used to serve their chunky fries, and intricate silverware and cups for a post-meal coffee or tea.

The Black Swan makes for a very versatile place that is great to grab a meal with co-workers or friends—they’ve just started their lunch service—and is definitely one of my favourite new restaurants. I paid a return visit recently, and food quality and service was just as impeccable as ever.

The Black Swan 19 Cecil Street, The Quadrant Singapore 049704

Reservations: (SMS) +65 8181 3305

Operating hours: Closed Sundays Lunch – Mon-Fri: 11.30am-3pm Dinner – Mon-Sat: 5pm-11pm Supper – Mon-Thurs: 10.pm-1am, Fri-Sat: 10.30pm-2pm