Eat List: Chinese New Year 2022 edition
A lot of factors come into play when ranking these places—it’s not easy and I won’t be surprised if we disagree. Taste is always going to be personal, and sometimes even controversial, though I will be as objective as possible. I hope this helps to open more conversations around food, and uncover more tasty spots and value-added calories.
After a happenstance hiatus from the blog, and giving some thought on the content I want to produce, I’ve decided to start a ‘top eats’ list. Unlike the routine ones that spring forth to mark year-ends, I wanted to do something more real-time, less affected by glitzy guides and awards, and with specific rankings (versus a plain compilation).
Welcome to my inaugural Eat List—final format still being finessed, but more updates to come, I promise. We’re leaping into the Year of the Tiger (1 Feb 2022) real soon, so no better way to kick things off than with a Chinese New Year edition.
Ate at somewhere on the list but did not enjoy it? I recommend you provide feedback to the establishment directly so they are aware of areas for improvement. Know of a restaurant that should be on the list or ranked higher? Share it with me (@jazpster) on Instagram (I’m more active there)!
Eat List: Chinese New Year 2022 (updated 25 Jan 2022)
1. Red House Seafood (Grand Copthorne)
Address: 392 Havelock Rd, Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel Level 2, Singapore 169663 | Website
Established in 1976, Red House Seafood is one of Singapore's oldest seafood restaurants, and IMHO very underrated. Their latest Grand Copthorne outlet is where you should head down to—classy, contemporary interiors, great execution across the menu and an ‘A La Carte Dim Sum & Seafood Lunch Buffet’ that’s both value and quality.
Credit: Red House Seafood
Their star creation Royal Seafood Pot ($288) is what catapulted them to top of my CNY2022 list. Focusing on what they do best—tasty, luxe seafood dishes that won’t bust the wallet—it’s an indulgent, seafood-focused ‘Pen Cai’ chockfull of premium ingredients such as fish maw, fresh scallop, fresh clam, mud crab, lobster, tiger prawns and fried threadfin fish stuffed with minced pork meat. All swimming in a comfortingly umami-rich, savoury broth made from a pork and clam soup base and deepened with flavour from lobster, prawn, crab and fish bones.
Other 'Kung Fu' specialties include masterful Crispy Golden Phoenix Chicken with Kiwi and Prosperity Salmon Yu Sheng tossed with a deliciously tangy dressing of dragon fruit, passion fruit and plum sauce. More details here>
2. Wan Hao Chinese Restaurant, Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel
Address: 320 Orchard Road, Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel Level 3, Singapore 238865 | Website
Wan Hao is where to dine if you’re out to impress your parents, future in-laws, clients etc. Their Lobster, Swordfish, Hokkaido Scallop, Sea Urchin, Caviar, Salmon Roe & Crispy Fish Skin Yu Sheng ($268) is ostentatious and bougie, but tastes oh-so fine. I’d thought the sea urchin would be lost in the mix, instead it added this gloriously creamy, umami layer to the dish. Chef’s choice of traditional dressing was also not as sweet, and light, allowing the delicate, crisp crunch and fresh seafood to shine.
The extremely delicious, popular Wan Hao Eight Treasures Imperial Pot with Bird’s Nest ($488 for 4-6pax; $888, 8-10pax) makes a well-deserved return. Dace fish-filled beancurd ‘treasure bags’ soak in a lip-smacking rich, thick chicken broth replete with collagen, alongside ingredients like bird’s nest, 10-head Australian abalone, fish maw, live prawns, pork tendons, free-range chicken, Japanese shiitake mushroom, and deboned ‘phoenix claws’ (the only time I’d actually eat chicken feet). More details here>
3. Hai Tien Lo, Pan Pacific Singapore
Address: 7 Raffles Blvd, Pan Pacific Singapore Level 3, Singapore 039595 | Website
Chef’s strength is in his Pen Cai (Poon Choy)—and practically anything braised and/or blanketed in a brown sauce. Hai Tien Lo offers a classic version (Classic Treasure Pot, from $288), though I highly recommend the Hai Tien Lo Superior Treasure Pot (from $508) loaded with premium ingredients—such as Eight-head whole abalone, dried oyster, dried fish maw, pork knuckle, lobster, Australian scallops, roast duck, Yunnan fungus, and more—luxuriating in a beautifully, full-bodied gravy, thickened with collagen from pork knuckle. Deep and savoury.
Tried the Vitality Yu Sheng with Lobster and Smoked Salmon, not bad but not memorable.
More noteworthy dishes (we sampled the Blissful Harmony set menu) would be the Double-boiled Mini Buddha Jumps Over the Wall—there’s a herbal hint to the soup, so it might not be for everyone—and the Deep-fried Sea Perch Fillet with Shacha Sauce. Brilliantly executed with an intensely savoury sauce. More details here>
4. Goodwood Park Hotel and Min Jiang at Dempsey
Address: 22 Scotts Road, Goodwood Park Hotel, Singapore 228221 | Min Jiang at Dempsey, 7A and 7B Dempsey Road, Singapore 249684 | Website
Killer, gift-worthy festive treats aside—for the uninspired: go for their decadent and pungent ‘Mao Shan Wang’ Tiger Swiss Roll (takeaway/delivery $133nett, 1kg); signature, smokey and flavoursome Bak Kwa (takeaway/delivery $60nett for 600g; $92nett, 1kg); or their mad addictive Crispy Kang Kong with Cheese & Sour Cream—Master Chef Goh Chee Kong had our socks well and truly knocked off with his Auspicious Abundance ‘Lo Hei’ (available only at Min Jiang at Dempsey; dine-in $168, $228; takeaway/delivery $243.96nett for large).
Chef Goh has always been an expert on flavour balance and textural play, though this year’s Yusheng creation goes beyond. There’s a dramatic dry ice reveal of a ‘firecracker’ arranged using fresh tiger prawns and baby abalones, and his dressing—plum sauce, kumquat juice, strawberry sauce, touch of ginger flowers and sesame oil—adds a brilliant burst of flavour.
It’s delightful and refreshing, with enough acidity and brightness. Deep-fried sweet potato strips, yam strips and deep-fried spring roll skin are also added for savoury crunchiness against the juicy, crispness of his greens and fruits medley. The best Yusheng I’ve had this year!
Other must-order items include Min Jiang’s Braised Spring Chicken with Ibérico Pork Rolls & Abalone in Pot and Min Jiang at Dempsey’s Steamed ‘Nian Gao’ coated with Shredded Coconut, livened with a base of crisp corn crackers.
The CNY dessert I really enjoyed was the Mango Pomelo Roll—almond sponge, mango mousse, mango and pomelo bits and topped with pink Chantilly cream, pomelo and gold flakes—currently only available as bite-sized entremets, part of the Sweet Abundance Tier Set. Hope they launch a larger version in future! More details here>
5. Man Fu Yuan, InterContinental Singapore
Address: 80 Middle Road, InterContinental Singapore Level 2, Singapore 188966 | Website
Go big or go home. Man Fu Yuan team certainly understood the assignment, presenting us with some plates that are big on drama and flavour. Their yusheng masterpiece, the new and luxurious 60-inch Garden of Abundance Yu Sheng ($588)—shaped in the Chinese idiom ‘五谷丰收' and adorned with premium ingredients such as baby abalone, lobster, sea urchin, scallops, salmon and crisp fish skin—is one of, if not the grandest ‘Lo Hei’ to feast on this year.
Or go for their individually-portioned yusheng—apt and classy—we had the Full of Abundance Yusheng (from their seven-course Abundance prix-fixe menu, $328/pax) that comes with Hokkaido scallops, sea urchin, Kaluga caviar and salmon, enlivened with chef’s bright, fresh pomegranate dressing and contrasted with crisp crunch of cornflakes and rice crispies.
Other dishes from the Abundance prix-fixe menu I really enjoyed are the Double-boiled Giant Fish Broth with Bird’s Nest in Coconut Husk—it has this alluring, deep and savoury aroma from Yunnan cured ham, and the collagen-thick soup broth is tasty and rich without the heft—and the Braised Lobster with Superior Crab Meat Egg White Sauce. Good on its own, thougheven better with accompanying wok hei-packed rice noodles in gravy and side shatteringly-crisp vermicelli nest.
Try also their masterful Abundance Treasure Pot ($498, available a la carte or takeaway) decadently brimming with over 18 premium ingredients—so good I had seconds, and then some—and the signature Roasted Suckling Pig with Glutinous Rice ($488). This may have arrived as a surprise dish from chef after 7-courses, but many of us still wiped the plate clean. The skin is shiok as always, with a perfect balance of satisfying crunch and flavourful fats; rice balanced with bits of mushroom and dried shrimp; and with a humble layer of cabbage between to balance the overall richness. More details here>
6. Crystal Jade restaurants
Address: Crystal Jade Palace, 391 Orchard Rd, #04-19 Takashimaya Shopping Centre, Singapore 238872 | Website
Under Group Executive Chef Martin Foo, I’ve experienced some extensive changes to the various Crystal Jade restaurant menus. We’ve had boundary-pushing theatrics, and some meals where it came across too restrained and health-focused, but recent menu updates seem to have found the appropriate balance—and with flair.
A definite highlight, and also one of the best Yu Shengs this season, is their gorgeously tangy and refreshing Opulence 3-head Abalone Yusheng (S$128/S$198; available at Crystal Jade Palace, Crystal Jade Golden Palace and Crystal Jade Dining IN). Comes with lightly-torched abalone slices, jellyfish and ikura, and is tossed with a winning roselle and yuzu-based dressing. The result is an exceedingly delicious, red-purple (from dragon fruit) mess, lifted with the fine crisp of crunchy Hsin Chu beehoon.
The Double-Boiled Kampong Chicken with American Sea Whelk and Tiger Palm Mushroom Soup ($28; available at Crystal Jade Palace) is another standout. Expertly executed, rich in flavour and had me slurping this down while still very hot—I’ve got a cat’s tongue so this is a compliment.
Other highlights include the ‘surf-and-turf’ Pan-fried Sea Cucumber Stuffed with Kurobuta Pork ($48; Crystal Jade Palace)—served with black moss, Chinese ‘iron yam’ (lends a fluffy potato-like texture), robed in a deeply-flavoured braising sauce and crowned with fried scallion—and Steamed Chilean Cod Fish with Red and Green Chilli in Puning Sauce ($22.80; Crystal Jade Dining IN). The sauce is light yet flavoursome, reminiscent of ‘Hor Fun’ gravy but peppered with the bright tang of preserved chilli.
Additional marks given for overall accessibility and myriad of concepts/locations. More details here>
7. Golden Peony, Conrad Centennial Singapore
Address: 2 Temasek Boulevard, Conrad Centennial Singapore Level 3, Singapore 038982 | Website
If you’re a fan of suckling pig, Golden Peony will be no stranger. Every year, Chef Ku Keung puts a spin on the time-honoured roast—some misses, but more hits. And this year’s version is a major success.
Drawing on chef’s Hakka roots, their outstanding crunchy outside, fatty Roasted Suckling Pig is stuffed with an almost nostalgic, savoury mix of tender stewed pork belly chunks, preserved vegetables, and a Hakka salted chicken roulade ($388; advance order required). The preserved vegetables, and side sauce, help cut through the richness of the suckling pig. I also appreciate the use of rice, instead of the usual glutinous rice, so overall it’s less heavy.
Other highlights being the luxurious Fortune Yu Sheng ($188) with Alaskan king crab leg meat, Hamachi sashimi, tiger prawns, brightened with mango and strawberries, as well as the dramatic Half Lobster ($38) baked with custard and mozzarella cheese, enjoyed with a Sichuan peppercorn sauce. More details here>
8. Yàn, National Gallery
Address: 1 Saint Andrew's Road, #05-02 National Gallery, Singapore 178957 | Website
Yàn 宴 at the National Gallery Singapore requires little introduction. Their masterful, traditional Cantonese fare—since now-defunct Park Palace Restaurant years—has garnered hordes of loyal regulars.
Without a doubt, their star is their signature Abalone & Salmon with Gold Foil Lo Hei in ‘Shun De’ Style (from $92, dine-in only). A classic that’s confidently savoury; divinely aromatic with peanut oil and a mountain of crispy vermicelli adds this delicious, light crispness.
Another must-try is the plentiful Yàn Harvest Pen Cai ($325, 5 pax; $650, 10 pax; advance order required) layered with 18 expertly done, premium ingredients, such as 6-head abalone, sea cucumber, prawns, whole conpoy, collagen-rich pork tendons, king grouper fillet, scallops, roast pork, soya chicken, and roast duck. More details here>
9. Wah Lok Cantonese Restaurant, Carlton Hotel Singapore
Address: 76 Bras Basah Road, Carlton Hotel Singapore Level 2, Singapore 189558 | Website
Even I’m surprised at this ranking. The classy Cantonese stalwart decided to hold back their reliable and consistent, signature Pen Cai from the tasting menu, so I can only based this year’s list on their other offerings.
Their new Fortune Sea Cucumber Lo Hei with plum dressing is a decidedly newfangled creation. Premium quality sea cucumber, braised, then made into Konnyaku topping sounds better on paper than in actual execution. There was too much of an earthy-briny uppercut with those thick, gelatinous slices—would have been better if diced or in smaller bites.
Noteworthy dishes include the warming Double-boiled Soup with Sea Whelk & Chicken, Pan-fried Scallops with Golden Sauce—mildly creamy sauce very nicely balanced with spice from spring onion and salty-sour pickle bits—wonderfully aromatic, succulent Prosperity Smoked Chicken. More details here>
10. Cherry Garden, Mandarin Oriental Singapore
Address: 5 Raffles Ave, Mandarin Oriental Singapore Level 5, Singapore 039797 | Website
Cherry Garden shines through their warm hospitality, consistently delicious food, and some fresh interpretations of traditional fare.
Their festive offerings range from a more classic Prosperity Yu Sheng—also what I tried this year, served with salmon, Japanese octopus and crispy fish skin for textural play—to an ultra premium version, Triumph Yu Sheng that’s laden with salmon, scallop, black truffle and black caviar.
Other must-tries includes chef’s masterful Braised Pork Belly, reminiscent of his grandmother’s cooking, this new old dish is enjoyed with chestnut, Chinese mushroom and hugged in a comforting, homemade brown sauce. I also really enjoyed their famed Five-grain Fried Rice, and elevated and light rendition full of ‘wok her’ and studded with Cantonese pork sausage and vegetables.
And for those looking to make a big impress, their ginormous Luxurious Pen Cai is the one to order. Didn’t have it this year as it would have been an arduous task for 5-pax to wolf down a literal basin of premium ingredients, such as whole 4-head abalone, lobster, prawn, sea cucumber, dried oyster roll, dace fillet, black moss, roasted pork belly, roasted duck, chicken, and more. More details here>
11. Jiang-Nan Chun, Four Seasons Hotel Singapore
Address: 190 Orchard Blvd, Four Seasons Singapore Level 2, Singapore 248646 | Website
Just like the changing of seasons, this restaurant has had days with more endearing appeal. This year’s grub is pleasant, straightforward and forgettable.
Star of the menu I sampled is their signature Braised Imperial Chicken ($488; appears to be non-CNY specific). As Wee Teck quipped, “No Pen Cai, but we have a ‘Bird Cai’”, with a “wow“ moment when the beautifully tender chicken, smothered in an umami stock, is sliced to reveal six-head abalone, sea cucumber and other delicacies.
Other noteworthy dish tried include the Prosperity Yu Sheng that’s full of oceanic flavours with lobster, abalone and salmon, as well as chef’s Wok-fried Australian Lobster with Chilli Sauce and Crispy Noodles. I enjoyed the tangy, spicy chilli with the oceanic flavour of delicate lobster meat, though perhaps there could be more congruence with the crispy noodles—it adds complexity with contrasting textures, though feels a bit too separate.
12. Putien
Address: Kitchener Flagship, 127 Kitchener Road, Singapore 208514 | Website
Popular, Michelin-starred restaurant chain Putien is all about comfort food with their home-style Heng Hwa cuisine.
Their Pot of Goodies Pen Cai comes with 12 ingredients—Putian duotou clams, abalone, sea cucumber, scallop, fish maw, prawns, roast pork, chicken wing, Japanese flower mushrooms, oyster mushrooms, fat choy, and radish—is really quite tasty. The gravy is deep and savoury, but not cloying. Also, conveniently available in four sizes, from $198 for 4pax to $498 for 10pax, so great for small families or gatherings.
Another highlight from their Chinese New Year exclusives is their signature Mazu Mee Sua. Handmade using traditional methods and a recipe unique to Putian, the pristine vermicelli doesn’t turn soggy when cooked. Instead, it has a lovely bite to it, soaking up flavour from the rich gravy sweetened with seafood like clams, prawns and their 'First Harvest’ seaweed. Hit of rice wine adds aroma and a lingering depth.
Their ‘Oyster Festival’ promotion should still be ongoing this period, so I highly recommend a plate of their expertly done, crunchy and savoury Putien Crispy Oyster, or the more simply executed Seasoned Fresh Oysters that’s brimming with exquisite freshness.
13. Tien Court, Copthorne King's Hotel
Address: 403 Havelock Road, Copthorne King's Level 2, Singapore 169632 | Website
If you’re up for something different and/or Teochew style, Tien Court has been raising their game with a new head chef in the kitchen, Master Chef Lui Wing Keung.
Their Prosperity Teochew Yusheng—enjoyed with octopus, salmon or abalone—is classic Teochew-style so expect a pretty mess of shredded mango, apple and melon with leafy greens tossed in a tangy sour plum dressing. Feels more like a salad, and a tasty one at that.
Their Kung Fu Pot (dine-in $268; takeaway $268Nett with claypot, $218Nett with vacuum-sealed pack only) is also very unique. With an amazingly earthy, savoury pumpkin broth, it’s lighter than the usual pen cai. Comes with handmade sotong balls, individually-wrapped cabbage parcels—stuffed with chunks of crabmeat and balanced with bits of crunch carrot—stuffed fish maw with prawn paste, abalone and more.
Other highlights include the masterful Fortune Spring Chicken—perfectly done and nice ratio of succulent skin to meat—and Braised Fish Cake with Napa Cabbage. Not to be confused with their Kung Fu Pot, the broth here is decidedly more savoury (like ham) and also watery, and the handmade fish cake on a bed of sweet Napa Cabbage. More details here>
14. New Ubin Seafood
Address: 30 Victoria Street, CHIJMES #02-01B/C, Singapore 187996 | Website
Old-school is the way at long-standing seafood stalwart New Ubin Seafood—and old must be gold because the place was bustling on a Tuesday evening when I visited.
Expect home-style, familiar favourites, like the 6 Treasures Platter ($68 a la carte) with a savoury fried yam ring and fiery sambal-tinged side, and their Double-boiled Superior Soup with Fish Maw & Conpoy. Thick, tasty and comforting.
Tasty highlights include their brilliantly executed Deep Fried Crispy Soon Hock (600gm) with Sweet & Sour Sauce, as well as the Crab Meat Fried Rice with Tobiko ($28 a la carte). Fragrant, packed with flavour, and the ‘wok hei’ complimented by the symphony of tobiko bursts. More details here>
15. The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore
Address: 15 Stamford Rd, Singapore 178906 | Website
It’s usually a carnival at Capitol Kempinski with their plethora of dining establishments, though recent ‘new norms’ times mean we only get to sample one dish from each concept so the odds aren’t always in their favour.
The Capitol Kempinski Yu Sheng Platter—served with salmon, crisp fried fish skin, plum dressing and peanut oil—is adequate, though I caution mixing in too much of the tiger/Chinese characters as the cinnamon powder throws off the balance with a dry nuttiness. 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung’s presentation of Alaskan King Crab is pretty and complex with cucumber jelly, 8-months old preserved lemon, pink pomelo and ikura—though the hits of bitter-tartness with cool-umami was too much of a distraction over the natural, sweet freshness of the seafood.
And as we were reeling from the “too much”, in swoops The Atelier’s Braised Fish Marble Goby with milk cabbage and broth, and the “Treasures in a Pot” Pen Cai, which were bland, interestingly. That said, I did enjoy desserts: a Pan “Nian Gao” (available at 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung)—wobbly , filo pastry-wrapped gem, served with slivers of water chestnut, gula melaka gel and a Japanese sweet potato ice cream—and their rich interpretation of Pineapple Tart. More details here>