Restaurant Ember's Chef Sufian Shines Bright

Just in time for what seems to be the season for romance, the disarmingly endearing Restaurant Ember at Hotel 1929 unveils a refreshed interior and an updated menu by new head chef Sufian Bin Zain.

It is no easy feat taking over after former chef Sebastian Ng's successful run of 12 years, but young chef Sufian, who cut his teeth at Les Amis, Iggy’s and Waku Ghin, has managed to satiate both regulars and new followers with refined old favourites and some of his own wonderful creations—like the uncomplicated starter of Steamed Egg Custard topped with mud crab, diced asparagus and aonori (only available as part of the set lunch menu).

Standout mains from their value-for-money set lunch (3-courses, $42) include the Pan-roasted Barramundi on a bed of clams and fine beans ($28, a la carte)—where the Avruga caviar topping served as more than just purely decorative as its complex, briny taste accentuated the lip-smacking clam jus—and the 36-hour, twice-cooked Duck Leg Confit.

For dinner (4-courses, $88), I'd recommend the 60-hour, first sous vide then slow-cooked to tender perfection Angus shortrib ($38 a la carte), served with a most lovely, smokey burnt onion puree, and a rich beef jus reduction.

Desserts offer a peek into the chef's creativity and novel ideas lined up for the upcoming full menu revamp. The 'Cheesecake' ($12, a parfait of cheesecake mixed with figs) had a most interesting texture that reminded of a moist, tasty fig-tinged marshmallow, and the 'Texture of Pistachio' ($15) teamed delightful pistachio sponge, crumble and ice cream with a contrasting ginger foam.

Restaurant Ember at Hotel 1929 50 Keong Saik Road Singapore 089158

Tel: +65 63471928

Opening hours: Closed on Sundays. Mondays to Fridays, lunch 11.30am to 2pm; dinner 6.30pm to 10pm. Saturdays, closed for lunch; open for dinner.