Review: Same Old Brand New KHA @ Martin No. 38

The last time I visited KHA @ Martin Road I was so terribly disappointed that I swore our commercialized friends at Thai Express were serving more “authentic” Thai cuisine. Thankfully, the team at KHA has undergone a revamp and has introduced an entirely new menu inspired from the region of Isaan.

Chef Adam Cliff, protégé of acclaimed Thai cuisine Chef David Thompson, is the savior now heading the kitchen with much experience in renowned Thai restaurants around the world. They include the popular Nahm Bangkok and London, and also Bo.Ian Bangkok. Through his travels, the region of Isaan has left the fondest impression on him. Famous for their intense, distinctive and rich flavours, Chef Adam has crafted an impressive menu to share with diners a true taste of Isaan.

The appetizers may get a little spicy on the palate; but in truth, that’s how our Thai folks in Isaan enjoy them.  The Moo Yung ($23), which was chargrilled iberico marinated in Thai garlic, coriander and pepper, was essentially a Thai’s take on char siew that could match your favourite local char siew store because of its premium cut of pork.

Another favourite was the Nahm Dtok Nuer ($22) tests the limits of once chili tolerance. While I may have failed the test miserably, I still enjoyed the tender grilled slices of wagyu strips. The distinctively Thai condiments gave the dish a rich spiciness that is quite enjoyable.

Do try the Gai Yung Esaan ($15). The chicken thigh has been marinated for 24 hours, locking much of the flavours through the meat. Grilled to tender, while crispy on the outside, the chicken was juicy with every bite with a tinge of sweet marinate coursing through the meat.

One should not miss out on the Pla Phao Glua ($30 – a salt-crusted whole seabass stuffed with lemongrass, pandanas and Thai basil stalks. The catch is huge, and I assure you for a mere $30 you are getting a great deal. The sea bass is assuredly fresh, and the simplicity of a slow oven grill with basic spices fully brings out the flavour of the seabass to match its freshness.

KHA has taken a turn for the better, and much credit must be given to Chef Adam for bringing his knowledge and skills to this humble restaurant. I’m a fan of Isaan cuisine, and Chef Adam has brought much of the humble traditions and flavous to local diners

NB: This was an invited tasting.

KHA 38 Martin Road Singapore 239059

Tel: +65 64769000

Opening Hours: Lunch: 12pm – 3pm Dinner: 6pm – 11pm