Tucked behind the UBS Building on Penang Road, YWCA Cafe Lodge is a tranquil retreat hidden in the most unlikely space. You wouldn’t usually associate food—or guest rooms—to such a brand, but YWCA Fort Canning is the revenue-generating arm and all net proceeds go towards funding their community service programmes.

The first thing that strikes you is how beautifully sunlit and spacious the place is. The restaurant was renovated recently, and while I haven’t tried their usual menu of comfort grub, I’d gladly make a return. PS. Mrs Kueh’s new pick-up location is there too, if you need another reason to drop by.

YWCA Fort Canning’s Cafe Lodge has recently launched a Guest Chef series, showcasing our local chefs. Chef Ratha Krishnan is the first chef to be featured. His restaurant, The Black Sheep Cafe, shuttered in 2021 after an admirable 16-year run, so this makes a wonderful opportunity to savour his cooking yet again.

Until 15 May 2022, he offers a three-course set meal featuring his signatures at $48++ for dinners on Saturdays and lunch on Sundays. Of the starters, go straight for the Baked Brie. It’s executed to a generous, glorious crust, with pistachios lending extra crunch, and the insides remain a melty goodness. Side pomelo citrus salad appreciatively helps to cut the richness.

It’s a challenge to pick between the main course options—I sampled all, of course, and I would be real disappointed if I didn't have at least two friends to return with so I can have a bit of everything.

His Duck Confit is excellent. Decadently crisp, brown skin reveals tender, intensely flavoured meat. A base of apple roesti rounds it with a comforting dose of savoury-sweet, but it is the tangy mango relish that kept me coming back for more. Refreshing, sweet and with a hit of spice.

The enormous Braised Lamb Shank is as tasty as it is pretty. Slow-cooked in red wine and dried apricots, the meat is fork-tender and just full of flavour. It’s served over a heap of silky mashed potatoes, and that savoury sauce will have you finishing every last bit.

Chef’s Wagyu Beef Cheeks is predictable but still very pleasing. Meltingly tender, thick slices of the lean cut is enjoyed with a truffle scented red wine sauce. And a side thick and creamy gratin potato that almost upstaged the meat.

Dessert is chef’s signature Flourless Dark Chocolate Cake, served with raspberry coulis and vanilla bean ice cream. Not bad, but not memorable. Pity chef’s famous souffle is not available on this pop-up.

This was an invited media tasting session, though all views expressed are my own.

YWCA Fort Canning Cafe Lodge
Address: 6 Fort Canning Road, Singapore 179494
Dine-in by reservation only: 6335 8008/8009; ywcacafe@ywca.org.sg
Opening hours: Chef Ratha Guest Chef Series run through 15 May 2022; Saturday Dinner, 6.30pm (Last order at 8.30pm); Sunday Lunch, 11.30am (Last order at 1.30pm)